20th November

Up early this morning because I’m going to Orléans! I haven’t been up this early in ages! Had to set my alarm!

It was nice to be out and about early. My favourite kind of weather too. Lovely and sunny- but really cold 🙂

I felt like I belonged as I joined all the people on the streets, going to wherever they needed to go- school, university, work. I kept grinning to myself like an idiot!

There was a market just setting up on the other side of the road from where I’m staying. I didn’t have time to stop and look but it did look as if it was going to be full of all the nonsense that I love- old furniture and bric-a-brac. Can’t wait to have a look next week! There was also a big fruit and vegetable market already underway further up the road. I wanted to stop and take pictures but was worried I might miss my train so I kept walking!

Christmas markets are being set up all over the city and lots of carousels too! They are advertising the new Frozen film in the station. It’s out on the 22nd November in England I think. And I’ve just checked and it’s out here…..TODAY! 🙂

This is going to sound ridiculous I know, but the train is lovely. It’s got little lamps on the walls- reminiscent of the old Pullman trains. The staff all look so smart too- and so friendly. I got a wink from the guard who checked my ticket! 🙂

I’m so glad the weather is nice. It’s lovely to sit here and to watch the French countryside going by 🙂

We arrived in Orléans at 10.45, I got off the train and thought “now what?” I’d done some reading about the city but still, I had no idea where anything was, so I did first things first and went to the loo! Lots of public conveniences here still have someone “on the door” as it were- and many you still have to pay for. I really don’t mind that as it hopefully, and usually, means that the loos are cleaner etc. I know they’ve just stopped charging in a lot of train stations in the UK, Leeds and Edinburgh included. What a tedious and thankless job though, sitting outside a public convenience all day. Hats off to the people that do it. We must always remember to say hello, goodbye and thank you to them 🙂

Hot chocolate next and a sit down to plan the day. I’ve probably only told a handful of you, but I started writing a children’s story book a couple of years ago and the idea is that it will, in quite a lighthearted way, deal with loss and healing. It’s based around a tin containing old bobbins of sewing thread that my Grandma Taylor gave me many years ago. Every time I went to it, it seemed to miraculously contain the colour that I needed and that I couldn’t find in my own, newer stock. It felt as if she was watching over me and that was comforting as I miss her very much. I started writing and then it went on the back burner and my intention was to hopefully write some more whilst in France. However, I’ve been so preoccupied since I got here with enjoying myself and writing my blog that I still hadn’t put pen to paper. Until today. I don’t know why but, while I was sat in that café, I got out my note book and just started writing. I wrote about 4 pages, just like that! I could actually have written more but I was only in Orléans for the day- and the café owner I think thought I had taken root! So off I set.

I went first of all to the Cathedral. Wowee! What an amazing building. Beautiful inside and out. It was almost as if some of the stonework was made of delicate lace. Of course the main focus of my visit to Orléans was Joan of Arc and, in the Cathedral is a stunning monument to her life and to the sacrifice she made for her country.

Born in Domremy in 1412, Joan was the daughter of a farmer. The hundred year war between England and France was raging at this time and Joan and her family lived on the border between the lands reigned over by the English and by the French Dauphin. Joan began to hear the voices of saints and, aged 16 years, these voices encouraged her to help the Dauphin capture Reims (currently under English control) and thereby the French throne.

When, in 1428, she initially tried to tell people about the voices, and the mission they had given her, she was ridiculed and sent away. But she was determined. So, in 1429, and dressed as a man this time, she tried again. Theologians concluded that she was indeed speaking the truth and in April 1429 she led an army into battle against the English in Orléans. After several days of fighting, during which Joan was injured, the French were victorious. Many more victories followed but then, in May 1430, Joan was captured by the Burgundians who sold her to the English and, in 1431, in Rouen, she was tried for heresy. She was found guilty and was sentenced to be burned at the stake.

Initially Joan recanted, dressed again in women’s clothes and her sentence was reduced to imprisonment. A few days later, however, she was found in her cell, again dressed as a man and said that the saints were unhappy that she had given into the church. She was found to be a relapsed heretic and was sentenced to death.

She was burned at the stake on 30th May 1431, in Rouen, aged just 19 years. She was then posthumously retried in 1456 and was declared innocent and a martyr. By 1558, France was fully under French control again. And in 1920, Joan of Arc was canonised as a saint of the Roman Catholic Church. Her feast day is May 30th. A short and amazing life.

After visiting the Cathedral I headed for the Musée des Beaux Arts. This is a fantastic museum and one I would highly recommend visiting. I walked into the first room and said out loud “wow!” Because it is wow! When I’d finished looking around I told the very nice man who brought me back my bags (yes I’d done a little shopping again!) that I thought the museum was amazing and probably one of the very best I’ve ever visited. And for only 6 euros, which also pays for entry to 2 other museums in the city. Brilliant 🙂

I took trillions of photos but won’t bore you with them all!

There were some paintings on show that were still waiting to be reunited with their rightful owners after being taken by the Nazis in the war. I was chatting to the lady who was “on guard” in that particular room. I recommended that she watches the film “The Woman in Gold” as it’s on the same topic.

Another picture that really struck me was this one because the artist has made the man’s clothing look as if it is real velvet rather than paint. I’ve never really seen that before. So clever.

I left the museum and went across the road to the Groslot Mansion. Formerly the city hall of Orléans it now hosts weddings and formal occasions. What a beautiful place, and full of artefacts relating to Joan of Arc. The wallpaper in the big meeting room was fabulous. It reminded me of that in Sirius Black’s house in Harry Potter.

Next I went to look for Joan of Arc’s house, where she stayed in the April and May of 1429. I’d read some rather unkind reviews online but wanted to make up my own mind. The original house was destroyed during a German bombing raid in 1940 and the house was then rebuilt in the 1960’s. It simply shows a film about her life but there is also a research centre on the first floor that can be visited. I decided not to do this as my time was limited and also I assumed that most of it would be in French.

The reviews called the house, amongst other things, a “tourist trap” but I have to disagree. The film was really good and told the story well and it was inclusive of the 6 euro ticket that I had bought earlier for the museum. So as far as I’m concerned it was great. Some people’s expectations……….

I was weary by this point but had quite some time to wait until my train at 6:45. I could have gone for something to eat but, as previously discussed, that wasn’t really an option. So, instead, I went to a bar and had a “vin chaud” mulled wine. Mmmm 🙂 It was lovely. And, whilst sipping that, I wrote a bit more of my story.

I had a chat with a lady and her daughter who were also having mulled wine and then another nice chat with a guy in a shop called La Chaise Longue who had lived in England for a time. His English was excellent. I’d love to get my French to that level.

Lots of very handsome men around again today! 🙂 One for me? Please 🙂

Back in Tours at 8pm. Home, tea and bed. A lovely day.

Bonne nuit 🙂